The closer we got to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park, the warmer it was getting and by the time we reached Tweerivieren, the temperature was heading towards 38-40degs!
Labouring in the heat, we slowly set up camp, in between ice cold beers, and waited out the afternoon. The three camps in the Park all have swimming pools, what a lifesaver. It became routine to take a prolonged dip before setting off on our afternoon game drives.
Not expecting much, we ambled off on the Rooiputs road along the Nossob River Valley. To our surprise, within the first few km's we came across a sleeping male lion, lying in the shade of a tree at the base of a dune, right next to the road!
We watched him for a while, but he was so “vas aan die slaap” we decided to move on. Excited now, we continued along the road towards Rooiputs. This first drive turned up so many animals: Springbok, Wildebeest, Black-backed Jackal, Montagu’s Harrier, Rufus Bustard, Secretary birds, Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters, Pale-chanting goshawks, Black-chested snake eagles, to name just a few.
As the sun was beginning to set we headed back along the same road towards our camp at Tweerivieren. To our delight, we came across a beautiful male leopard standing on top of an old riverbank in the rays of the setting sun!
Wow, we were so excited to see him and we watched him for as long as time would allow before we had to head back to camp to make the 19h30 curfew and a 50km/hr speed limit. En route back to Tweerivieren we noticed a gathering of cars up ahead in the road and knew something exciting must have been spotted. We crept up behind the other cars and, low and behold, sitting perched with his back up against a large branch in a Camelthorn tree right next to the road was a young leopard! Unbelievable, two leopard sightings on our first afternoon!
Truly excited now, we headed off again and stopped for a short while to watch the male lion we had seen earlier, he had moved a bit, but was battling to wake up after his long daytime sleep. When he eventually did sit up and move he let out a few yawns, showing off his spectacular set of incisors. Then softly, at first, began to call into the distance and listen for any return callers. Fantastic! This is what we came for – Africa!
Those first few hours in the park got us so excited and really set the scene for the rest of our adventures in the Park. The parting shot below really sums up the Kgalagadi for me. A male Kalahari lion silhouetted in the rays of the setting sun - Awesome!
The Tweerivieren campsite is nicely laid out with plenty of shade trees, awnings and thatched shaded tables. The strict control on the number of campers allowed at each campsite means there is always plenty of space to set up camp. There are electricity points throughout the main campsite. There are a few sites situated a little further away from the main campsite, but they do not have power or water points.
Tweerivieren has a restaurant and well stocked shop with most of the basic necessities and ice cold beer! It is a good idea to bring your own wood, or purchase wood at Tweerivieren for the rest of your trip. Collecting wood in the Park is not allowed.
Read Part 3 of our Kgalagadi trip
Text and images by Arne and Cecile.
